Koraput
For over two decades, Pinku Sorabu of Soura Kuhudi in Kotpad block, Odisha, has been designing jewelry for the women of the Bhotara tribe since he was 10 years old. It’s a skill he inherited from his father, the late Nanda Kishore Sorabu. With 35+ traditional designs, he keeps alive a cultural tradition that dates back generations, despite no help from government or private organisations.
Bhotaras—also known as Bhatra, Bhotra, Bothada, Bottara, and Dhottada—are an agricultural tribe residing predominantly in southern Odisha, particularly in Koraput and its neighbouring Nabarangpur district. The community speaks the Bhatri dialect and is divided into three major groups—Bada, Madhya, and Sana—which are further sub-divided into exogamous and totemistic clans such as Kachihmo (Tortoise), Goyi (Lizard), Kukur (Dog), Bhag (Tiger), Nag (Cobra), Pandki (Pigeon), Mankad (Monkey), and Chheli (Goat).
In villages like Soura Kuhudi, Ghansuli, and Badapada, nearly two dozen families—mostly from the Sunari community—have been engaged in crafting jewelry for Bhotara women. “We’ve been making tribal jewelry for generations,” the artisans tell the The Indian Tribal. They have inherited the craft from their fathers and forefathers. Yet, over time, this heritage has been devalued due to the proliferation of mass-produced, cheap imitations in the market.
Bhotara women, young and old, wear distinctive ornaments such as Kasu Mali, Guria Mali, Hasha Pai Mali, Chapsari Mundi, Kanthi Mali, Chapsari Mali, and Betla. These are worn along with their traditional ear-rings, rose-rings, rings, and khadu (metal bangles). Though modern, flashy jewelry has found its way into the younger generation’s wardrobes, traditional ornaments still hold strong emotional and cultural significance—especially during festivals.
“On normal days we manage mostly with ear-rings and rose-rings. Some even wear Betla that is inserted into the holes made in the helix (curved outer rim of the ear). However, we put on the full set of ornaments during puja and festive occasions,” says Sonia Bhatra, a tribal farmer from Soura Kuhudi.
“We also place orders with the jewelry makers to make copper cobras so that we can offer them to Lord Shiva. Our women also use Mundi and khadu made from copper, which is otherwise rarely used in our jewelry,” adds Soma Bhatra from neighbouring Badapada. “Though these ornaments were traditionally made for tribal women, many non-tribal women now also wear them. They order custom designs that retain the original tribal essence,” he explains.
The jewelry-making process involves about 40 tools including Garsi (for wielding), Nih (hammer), Karli (frame), and Fail (for sharpening). Artisans like Pinku Sorabu sell their creations every Tuesday at the Kotpad weekly haat, just 1.5 km from Soura Kuhudi. Some also travel by motorbike to nearby areas in Chhattisgarh to boost their income.
“With the help of my mother Subarna, my wife Droupadi, and my sister Girija, we create various designs that bear the stamp of tradition. I even customise pieces as per orders placed by both tribal and non-tribal customers,” says Pinku. “My weekly earnings at the Kotpad market range between ₹2,000 and ₹3,000. My late father, Nandakishore Sorabu, used to earn around ₹8,000 a week. But the value of our work has dropped due to an invasion of cheap, fancy jewelry,” he laments.
While many artisans stick to traditional styles, others like Dhaniram Sorabu have diversified. He creates nearly 50 designs, including silver and gold-coated pieces. Besides Kotpad, he sells his jewelry at weekly markets in Chanduli, Musahandi, and Nagarnath in Chhattisgarh, earning up to ₹10,000 every week.
Artisan families in other villages, too, rely on this craft for their livelihood. Around 12 families in Pilika, five in Shyamla, and two in Limbhata—located in Nabarangpur—also make Bhotara ornaments. “We make more than 40 designs and sell them every Monday at Nabarangpur haat, Thursday at Daugaon, and Saturday at Ampani in Kalahandi. We take the bus to these markets, as each is nearly 35 km from our village. Our weekly income ranges between ₹12,000 and ₹13,000,” Gopal Sarabu informs The Indian Tribal.
The ornaments are made using brass, bronze (bell metal), and copper. Bronze is used in solid pieces, while copper and brass wires are shaped into jewelry. A local chemical known as ‘Ranga’—which costs about ₹20 for 10 grams—is mixed with bronze for wielding using a Garsi. Dubu Set is used for bead-making, Jabgar for flattening wires, and Karli for shaping designs.
“My designs vary in price. A small pair of simple earrings preferred by Bhotara women costs ₹10. If silver-coated, the price is ₹40. Gold-coated ones go for ₹60. But prices keep fluctuating with the changing rates of raw materials,” says Dhaniram. “Currently, 100 grams of brass wire costs around ₹120, copper wires ₹150, and 50 grams of bronze about ₹50. Gold now costs ₹1,000 per 100 ml, and silver ₹800 per 10 grams,” he adds.
Despite being one of Odisha’s 61 officially recognized handicrafts, tribal jewelry from Kotpad has received no structured support from the government. Agencies like the Directorate of Handicrafts and Odisha Rural Development and Marketing Society (ORMAS) have not taken concrete steps to promote or market the jewelry made by Sunari families in the region. This stands in stark contrast to the efforts seen in Karamul, Dhenkanal, where tribal jewelry and artisans receive focused development support.
“We know tribal jewelry is in high demand, even outside Odisha and abroad. But there is no system—either online or offline—to help us market our products. We really need market linkage and digital platforms, but we don’t know how to navigate that on our own,” Pinku admits.
Pinku also recalls, “The Directorate of Handicrafts had once trained some of us, including my father, more than a decade ago. Even foreign tourists used to visit and buy from us. But since the COVID-19 pandemic, no one has come.” Dhaniram echoes the frustration: “Officials come and go. They make promises, but nothing changes. All we’re left with is hope.”
Attempts to contact Assistant Director (Handicrafts) Samir Patra were unsuccessful. Meanwhile, Bhubaneswar-based organisations such as Anwesha Tribal Arts and Crafts did try to collaborate with jewelry makers in Nabarangpur more than a year ago, but later backed off.
“We had even provided training to a few artisans there,” says Dambarudhar Behera, secretary of Anwesha Arts and Crafts. “But we couldn’t take it forward commercially. The distance between Bhubaneswar and Nabarangpur—over 500 km—made logistics unviable.”
