Raipur/New Delhi
Chhattisgarh is mulling declaring Mahua liquor a heritage drink just like the way Madhya Pradesh did. But with the move not yielding the desired results in the neighbourhood, it is carefully weighing all the pros and cons to take a final call on the issue.
An official from the Chhattisgarh Government confirmed that a similar move is being contemplated. However, what has happened in Madhya Pradesh is being seriously studied. “While there have been few takers for Mahua liquor, available in bars and retail outlets across Madhya Pradesh, there are other issues as well that need to be considered. Mahua is produced in large quantities but liquor made from it for personal consumption has low shelf life. Moreover, the quality has to be maintained for heritage drink.”
Things are not rosy in Madhya Pradesh at present, and Chhattisgarh would do well to consider this setback.
Two distilleries were established in Alirajpur and Dindori districts in Madhya Pradesh to produce mahua liquor. The self-help groups in charge of them were imparted training and handed over grants to start the process. The rule was that only certain bars in the State can sell mahua liquor and that the SHGs can also sell directly.
But things are on halt for the time being. Alirajpur collector Abhay Bedekar said that currently marketing is not able to match the amount of production. “The government is looking for new ways to sell the already produced bottles. Bottles have been kept for sale at airports and big cities like Indore and Bhopal. Some people are yet to develop the taste for mahua liquor.”
Similar is the situation in the Baiga-dominated Dindori district. Mansharam Wikey of the Excise Department in Dindori said production has stopped as some maintenance work has to be carried out.
“Production ran smoothly for two months and about 2000 litres of liquor was made. But the sale of mahua liquour is not up to the expectation. Some amount of payment is yet to come to the Self-Help Group, Maa Narmada, consisting of 14 people,” sources said.
A collective consisting of a few individuals committed to supporting tribal communities in Chhattisgarh feels that a policy shift will permit the sale of mahua liquor through tribal cooperatives in the state. “This will ensure an additional income source to marginalised communities and may help in solving the decades-long insurgency problem,” said activist Shubhranshu Choudhary.
The establishment of a National Mahua Research Centre can provide the necessary support to enhance the quality, shelf life and appeal of mahua liquor. A letter has been sent to the NITI Aayog, the collective maintained.
The Golden Flower
The small and sweet-tasting mahua (Madhuca longifolia) flower is the lifeline of the tribal economy across 12 Indian states. Apart from liquor,Mahua is also used to make latta, which is a nutritious food, besides value-added items like cookies and laddoos. The last two are being made by some women’s SHGs in Chhattisgarh.
Here too, there is a hiccup. The leading member of a self-help group based in Dantewada district of Chhattisgarh said that the group was engaged in making Mahua food items like cookies but right now as bulk orders are absent, the group has stopped regular activity. “We want a steady flow of order,” she said.
In the summer season, the collection of fresh Mahua flowers generate ready cash income for families in tribal-dominated states like Jharkhand, Odisha, Madhya Pradesh and Chhattisgarh. Dried mahua flowers are sold to traders directly and even at tribal haats. Households also store dried flowers for preparing liquor. At local markets, sometimes Mahua liquor is sold in bottles but it is mostly illicit trade.
Budhram Kawasi, a resident of Bastar district, said that tribal people occasionally sell mahua liquor in haats. “One kg of dried mahua is enough to make two bottles of liquor. A Mahua liquor bottle is sold for Rs 50-60 at haats. The bottles are discarded beer bottles.”
Sometimes, tribal families store up to 10 kg of dried flowers. Most families make liquor for personal consumption. Mahua in dried form can be stored for up to a year. Though there is restriction on mahua liquor sale, it is good for health if taken moderately. People also offer mahua liquor to gods and goddesses as it is the custom, Kawasi said.
The Goan Experiment
The experimentation with Mahua liquor has been successful in Goa, possibly due to its being a top travel destination. Desmond Nazareth and Conrad Braganza have been selling Mahua liquor in Goa since 2018 under the DesmondJi brand and have started it in Karnataka, Mumbai and Pune too.
Nazareth expressed satisfaction over the heritage liquor tag. “I am happy with the Madhya Pradesh government’s move as I acted as a policy advisor. Most of my suggestions like starting distilleries run by self-help groups were adopted,” Nazareth said. A national mahua conclave was organised in Bhopal last year during which he was present.
Additional Excise Commissioner, Madhya Pradesh, Rajesh Henry said that Mahua has been used in India by tribals for centuries. It plays a crucial economic role. “But during the British regime, the sale and consumption of Mahua liquor were banned. The reason was to discourage indigenous liquors. Subsequent governments continued with that after Independence.”
In Madhya Pradesh, tribal people could brew up to 45 litres for personal consumption on special occasions. But they could not sell and carry it. It was in the excise rules.
Madhya Pradesh seems to have been inspired from other local drinks capturing global markets. “As traditional drinks like tequila from Mexico, arrack from Sri Lanka and even Feni made from coconut in Goa have been rebranded, there was a thought of promoting Mahua liquor on the same lines. The fact that it will also protect tribal communities from exploitation and bring about a respectability to the whole thing was also considered. Many families sell mahua at lower rates like Rs 30-35 per kg to middlemen,” Henry said.
As Mahua has been declared the heritage liquor of Madhya Pradesh, there are some rules on this. Manufacturers have to be only from tribal self-help groups having 50 percent women members. But though the State government’s move was aimed at boosting the tribal economy and helping families, Mahua liquor is still struggling to find a wider market.
