Guwahati
The colourful fabric worn by the indigenous communities of Tripura has been granted the coveted Geographical Indication (GI) registration that helps protect the identity and quality of the product besides augment the income and livelihood of the weavers.The GI tag was obtained by the Killa Mahila Cluster Level Federation (CLF) of Gomati District, with the support of the Tripura Rural Livelihood Mission (TRLM) and the National Bank for Agriculture and Rural Development (NABARD). The CLF, comprising 20 self-help groups of women weavers, had applied for the GI registration in 2022, after receiving training and guidance from TRLM and NABARD.
Risa is known for its vibrant colours, geometric patterns, and cultural motifs reflecting Tripura’s rich heritage and diversity.
“Heartiest congratulations to all artisans particularly those from Killa Mahila Cluster promoted by TRLM on ‘Tripura Risa’ getting GI (Geographical Indication) Tag. This will definitely help our signature garment to get international recognition,” Tripura Chief Minister Manik Saha posted on his X handle.
Typically, all tribal women from Tripura wear an ankle-length wraparound called Rignai. The upper half of the body is covered by two pieces of garment — Risa (also called Riha) and Rikutu. While the Risa specifically covers the chest area, the Rikutu covers the entire torso.
In the yesteryears, these garments were made from homespun cotton threads. These days, though, the threads are bought from the market. Also, by and large, the Risa has been substituted by the blouse, and many young girls from Tripura wear the Rignai with tops too.
The background of the Risa is usually a shade of blue-black but sometimes it can be red too. The main feature of Tripuri handlooms is vertical and horizontal stripes with embroidery (in scattered patterns) in different colours.
The embroidered motifs could be stars, dots, flowers or designs unique to a tribe. Chakma, Kuki, Lussai and Reang are the main tribes of the State. Each has its own specific designs and motifs for weaving shawls and wrappers.Interestingly, it has long been believed that in Tripura, legends are sung and woven into the fabrics. Moreover, colours are symbolic and, hence, very significant.
The worst punishment a weaver can ever get is to be forbidden the use of a colour or colours.Even today, Tripuri women in rural households prefer to weave their own Risa and Rignai, generally on the loin or backstrap loom. Other handloom products that are woven include lungi, sari, chaddar and scarves.
The Reang tribe of Tripura uses natural dyes obtained from plants for black, blue and brown yarn that is made from hand-spun cotton.The tribes of Tripura are also known for the Lasingphee, which is woven cloth with cotton wads. This thick and warm cloth is used for quilts, covers, scarves and bedspreads
The GI tag to Risa comes about a year after Tripura’s queen pineapple got it.
